Saltfish came to these islands the hard way, as cured cod shipped in to feed plantation labour, and the islands did what they have always done with what they were given. They made it the centre of the table. Stewed saltfish is the Kittitian and Nevisian Sunday plate, eaten with whatever the kitchen has to hand: rice, boiled green figs, a coconut dumpling, fried plantain, a wedge of breadfruit. The fish is salty and rich, the vegetables are soft and sweet, and the heat does not go in the pan. It goes on the side, a spoon of scotch bonnet pepper sauce per plate, so each person sets their own line. That is the rule Llewellyn Clarke makes his sauce for: on stewed saltfish, the way it is meant.
Serves 4
- 450g salted cod
- 2 tablespoons oil
- 1 large onion, sliced
- 3 cloves garlic, chopped
- 1 sweet pepper, sliced
- 2 tomatoes, chopped
- 3 sprigs fresh thyme
- 2 spring onions, chopped
- A little scotch bonnet, to taste, in the pan; the rest on the side
- Black pepper
- Llewellyn's Hot Pepper and Thyme Sauce, to serve
The night before, cover the saltfish in cold water and leave it in the fridge, changing the water two or three times. The next day, boil it for ten minutes, drain, taste a flake, and if it is still too salty, boil once more in fresh water. Cool it, then flake it with your fingers, pulling out any bones and skin.
Heat the oil in a wide pan over a medium flame. Soften the onion, garlic, and sweet pepper for five minutes without colouring them. Add the tomatoes, thyme, spring onion, and as much scotch bonnet as you want cooked in, and let it cook down to a soft stew, about eight minutes. Fold in the flaked saltfish, turn the heat low, and let it warm through for five minutes so the fish takes on the seasoning. Grind in black pepper. Do not add salt; the fish carries it.
Serve hot, with rice or boiled green figs and a piece of fried plantain. Put the bottle of pepper sauce on the table and let everyone find their own heat.
For the diaspora kitchen. This is the smell of a Kittitian Sunday morning, and it survives a long way from home. Salt cod keeps for months in a cupboard in London or Brooklyn, and the pepper sauce does the rest of the work of carrying you back.
Shop this recipe: Llewellyn's Hot Pepper and Thyme Sauce · Carib Lager, to drink alongside