An &Lime production

The boat from St. Kitts

Three times a week, Llewellyn Clarke meets the boat from St. Kitts. It carries fifty pounds of scotch bonnet, more when the season has been kind. The crossing from Basseterre to Charlestown runs forty minutes in a calm channel and longer in a rough one, and the boat does not wait. Whoever ordered the peppers is on the pier when it lands.

The peppers come from the south-east of St. Kitts, where the volcanic soil holds heat and the rains arrive on schedule. Llewellyn has bought from the same growers for the better part of twenty years. He pays cash on delivery and never short-counts a bag. Both sides keep it simple, which is why it has lasted.

In Rawlins Village the peppers go straight to prep. Stems off, seeds in or out by recipe, a wash, a weigh. The kitchen is small and the blender is industrial. Most of the work happens late, after Llewellyn has come off his shift at the Four Seasons and the village has gone quiet.

A batch then sits for weeks. Heat at the front, fruit through the middle, thyme opening slowly on the finish. Llewellyn tastes from the same spoon he has used since the first batch in 2003. He knows when it is ready.

Three hundred bottles leave that kitchen in a good week. They go to Sunshine's, to the chef's pass at the Four Seasons, to the shops in Charlestown, and to anyone who orders through the site. One bottle once travelled to a mountain village in China for a FedEx advert. The recipe was the same recipe.

Shop this story: Llewellyn's Hot Pepper and Thyme Sauce · Guava · Mango

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